Patterns and Basic Sewing

§Text Passage

1Summary 重點摘要

Garment making starts with measuring and pattern drawing: take body sizes, add ease and seam allowances, draw the pattern with its markings; hand stitches include tacking, running, back and slip stitches, and the sewing machine must be threaded correctly. Orderly habits and safety make neat, well-fitting work.

2Vocabulary cards Vocabulary

3Step by step Steps

1. Taking measurementsMeasuring is the first step of garment making; the tools are a soft tape and a record sheet. Three rules apply: hold the tape against the body but not tight — pulling makes the size too small and the garment too tight; keep the tape level, the same height front and back as it circles the body; and stand straight, breathing naturally. Measure bust, waist and hips, plus lengths such as skirt and trouser length. For example, when measuring the waist the tape must sit at the narrowest point — tilted, the figure goes wrong. Write every number down at once instead of trusting memory, so the pattern has reliable data.
2. Drawing the basic patternDraw the pattern from the measurements: first rule the centre front line and the hip line as guides, set out the lengths and widths to size and add the ease needed for movement — a basic skirt pattern adds ease at the hips so sitting is comfortable; then draw the side-seam curves and waistline. Shorts need the crotch section drawn as well. Textbooks often start from a basic bodice block and vary it into different styles. For example, with a 64 cm waist, the skirt pattern is drawn wider than the body once ease and seam allowances are added, so the finished skirt fits comfortably, neither tight nor loose.
3. Pattern markingsPattern markings are the language of cutting and sewing: the grain-line arrow shows the fabric direction and must run parallel to the selvedge when laying out; the seam allowance, about one to two centimetres outside the pattern edge, marks where panels join; centre front, fold lines and opening positions must be clearly labelled; balance marks and darts keep front and back aligned. For example, placing the pattern crosswise against the grain makes the finished garment twist, and a forgotten fold-width marking leaves the hem uneven — not one marking may be skipped.
4. Tacking and running stitchStart hand sewing with tacking and the running stitch. Tacking sews long, loose stitches in a contrasting thread to hold two layers temporarily; once the real seam is sewn, the tacking is removed. The running stitch, also called the plain stitch, takes short even steps, one up and one down in a line, for simple joins and gathering. For example, tack a zip in position before machine sewing, then remove the tacking afterwards and the zip lies flat without shifting; when practising the running stitch, draw a line on the fabric and follow it — the stitches come out even, and the hand learns the rhythm before sewing curves.
5. Back stitch and slip stitchThe back stitch doubles back half a stitch each time before moving on, so the stitches lock and the seam is very strong — suited to seams under strain and to places a machine cannot reach. The slip stitch, also called the hidden stitch, picks up only one or two threads at the edge of a fold, keeping the stitches inside; it closes hems, facings and openings almost invisibly. The herringbone stitch can hold a waistband lining in place, while simple embroidery such as cross stitch decorates clothing. For example, closing a cushion cover with slip stitch leaves the opening invisible once it is turned right side out, neat and durable.
6. Threading the machine and straight stitchingMachine sewing starts with threading: wind and insert the bobbin, pass the upper thread in order through the thread guides, tension dial and take-up lever to the needle, then turn the hand wheel to bring the lower thread up. Test on scrap fabric to set the stitch length and tension; reverse a few stitches at the start and end to lock the seam, and guide the fabric lightly with both hands along the seam guide. Keep fingers away from the needle, remove jewellery and tie back long hair. For example, cotton is the best practice fabric for beginners because its woven structure is stable; silky and knitted fabrics slip and stretch — master the basics before trying them.
7. Orderly habits and finishing raw edgesSewing work should be systematic: count tools and materials before starting; return scissors and the seam ripper to a fixed place after use; put every pin back into the box or pin cushion at once — never leave them on the bench or inside the fabric; clean the worktop after each stage and collect threads and offcuts together. Cut edges fray, so finish them by overlocking, folding or zigzag stitching so the work stays durable and neat. For example, overlock the cushion panels before joining them and the cover survives many washes without fraying; snip thread ends as you go, and both the work and the bench stay tidy and safe — a systematic way of working.

4Diagrams Diagrams

5Worked example Example

6Common mistakes Mistakes

7Quick check Quick check

8Recap Recap

• Measure with the tape close, level and not tight — accurate sizes make well-fitting garments
• Patterns are drawn with ease and seam allowances; grain-line arrows, balance marks and other markings are essential
• Each hand stitch has a role: tacking holds, running joins, back stitch strengthens, slip stitch hides
• Thread the machine in order, test on scrap fabric and reverse at both ends for straight, secure stitching
• Pins back at once, tools in their place, raw edges finished — systematic habits keep sewing safe and tidy