Nature and Properties of Waves

Foundation

A wave carries energy from place to place while the medium only vibrates in place: transverse waves have crests and troughs, longitudinal waves compressions and rarefactions. Describing waves by amplitude, wavelength, period and frequency, and using T = 1/f and v = fλ, you can read waveform graphs and calculate speeds and wavelengths.

For:Secondary 5 Physics · Unit:Wave Motion · Lesson 3 of 6 in the learning path

After this lesson, you can:
  • A wave transfers energy from place to place while the medium's particles only vibrate in place
  • Transverse waves have crests and troughs (rope, water); longitudinal waves have compressions and rarefactions (sound)
  • Amplitude is the maximum displacement from equilibrium; wavelength is the distance between neighbouring in-phase points
文體:科學知識說明文有聲朗讀

文體小知識:科學知識說明文——由水波槽與繩波入手,講解波動怎樣傳送能量、橫波與縱波的分別,以及振幅、波長、頻率與波速的讀圖和計算方法。

物理Physics
Before this lesson you should know: Momentum

§Text Passage

1Drop a stone into a pond and ripples spread outward in rings, yet a small piece of paper floating on the surface only bobs up and down — it does not drift away with the wave. This reveals the nature of wave motion: a wave transfers energy from place to place while the particles of the medium merely vibrate about their own positions. Sound, light and radio signals all carry energy and information over distances as waves, which is why wave motion is a core S5 topic.

2Waves come in two kinds. In a transverse wave the vibration is perpendicular to the direction of travel, with crests at the top and troughs at the bottom — rope waves and water waves are transverse. In a longitudinal wave the vibration is parallel to the direction of travel: the medium is repeatedly squeezed and stretched, forming alternate compressions and rarefactions, of which sound is the most familiar example. The shapes differ, but both follow the same rules and are described by the same quantities.

3Four quantities describe a wave. Amplitude is the maximum displacement of a particle from its equilibrium position, reflecting the energy carried; wavelength is the distance between two neighbouring in-phase points, such as two adjacent crests; the period is the time for one complete oscillation; and the frequency is the number of complete oscillations per second. Period and frequency are reciprocals, and the frequency is fixed by the source.

4Wave speed, frequency and wavelength are linked by one simple formula: speed equals frequency times wavelength. In one oscillation the wave advances one wavelength, so the number of wavelengths covered per second equals the frequency. For example, a tuning fork vibrating at 400 Hz in air, where the speed of sound is 340 m per second, produces waves of wavelength 340 divided by 400, i.e. 0.85 m. Wave speed depends only on the medium: when a sound wave passes from air into water, its speed and wavelength both increase while its frequency stays exactly the same.

5Reading waveform graphs is basic DSE skill. A displacement-time graph tracks the oscillation of one particle, with time on the horizontal axis: read the period and amplitude from it. A displacement-distance graph is a snapshot of the whole wave at one instant, with distance on the horizontal axis: read the wavelength and amplitude from it. The two shapes look alike, so check the axis before reading. The next lesson uses light to examine what happens when waves meet a boundary: reflection and refraction.

1Summary 重點摘要

A wave carries energy from place to place while the medium only vibrates in place: transverse waves have crests and troughs, longitudinal waves compressions and rarefactions. Describing waves by amplitude, wavelength, period and frequency, and using T = 1/f and v = fλ, you can read waveform graphs and calculate speeds and wavelengths.

2Vocabulary cards Vocabulary

w
wave波

A disturbance that transfers energy without transferring matter; the medium only vibrates in place.

t
transverse wave橫波

A wave vibrating perpendicular to its direction of travel, with crests and troughs; rope and water waves.

l
longitudinal wave縱波

A wave vibrating parallel to its direction of travel, made of alternate compressions and rarefactions; sound.

c
crest波峰

The highest point of a transverse wave, where the displacement is maximum.

t
trough波谷

The lowest point of a transverse wave, where the displacement is maximum in the opposite sense.

c
compression密部

The region of a longitudinal wave where particles are crowded together.

r
rarefaction疏部

The region of a longitudinal wave where particles are spread apart.

a
amplitude振幅

The maximum displacement of a particle from equilibrium, reflecting the energy carried by the wave.

w
wavelength波長

The distance between two neighbouring in-phase points, e.g. two adjacent crests; symbol λ.

f
frequency頻率

The number of complete oscillations per second, in hertz (Hz); fixed by the source, T = 1/f.

3Step by step Steps

  1. Step 1: Waves carry energy, not matterThe most basic property of wave motion: energy travels with the wave while the particles of the medium merely oscillate about their own positions. When water waves pass a buoy, it bobs up and down but is not carried to the shore; a wave running along a rope leaves every point of the rope back where it started. The key sentence for concept questions is 'a wave transfers energy without transferring matter'. For example, float a sheet of cling film on water and dip a finger beside it: as the ripples pass, the film only rises and falls in place — a direct demonstration.
  2. Step 2: Transverse and longitudinal wavesIn a transverse wave the vibration is perpendicular to the direction of travel, and crests and troughs are plainly visible: flick a rope or shake a long spring sideways to make one. In a longitudinal wave the vibration is parallel to the travel: push and pull a spring a few times and pulses of compressions and rarefactions run along it; sound in air travels exactly like this. For example, when you speak, your vocal folds vibrate and squeeze the air into alternating compressions and rarefactions that reach the listener's eardrum. The two wave shapes differ, but the quantities and calculations are identical.
  3. Step 3: Amplitude and wavelengthThe amplitude A is the maximum displacement of a particle from equilibrium, measured on a waveform from the zero line to a crest (or trough); the larger the amplitude, the more energy the wave carries. The wavelength λ is the distance between two neighbouring in-phase points — most easily two adjacent crests or two adjacent compressions — in metres. For example, if two adjacent crests on a waveform are 0.5 m apart on the horizontal axis, the wavelength is 0.5 m; if a crest rises 2 cm above the zero line, the amplitude is 2 cm. Do not measure amplitude from trough to crest — that doubles the answer.
  4. Step 4: Period and frequency, T = 1/fThe period T is the time for one complete oscillation, in seconds; the frequency f is the number of complete oscillations per second, in hertz. They are reciprocals: T = 1/f and f = 1/T. The frequency is fixed by the source and does not change when the wave enters another medium. For example, a buoy bobbing 20 times in 8 s takes 8 ÷ 20 = 0.4 s per oscillation, so T = 0.4 s and f = 1 ÷ 0.4 = 2.5 Hz — that is, 2.5 oscillations per second. On a displacement-time graph, the gap between adjacent crests is the period.
  5. Step 5: The wave equation v = fλIn one period a wave advances one wavelength, so each second it advances f wavelengths: v = fλ. Given any two of the three quantities, the third follows. For example, a 400 Hz tuning fork in air, where the speed of sound is 340 m s⁻¹, produces waves of wavelength λ = v ÷ f = 340 ÷ 400 = 0.85 m; again, water waves of frequency 4 Hz and wavelength 0.05 m travel at v = 4 × 0.05 = 0.2 m s⁻¹. Speed depends only on the medium: light is fastest in vacuum, sound fastest in solids; when a wave crosses into a new medium, its speed and wavelength change while its frequency stays put.
  6. Step 6: Two graphs, two readingsDisplacement-time and displacement-distance graphs look alike; the difference is the horizontal axis. A displacement-time graph follows one particle, with time on the axis: the gap between adjacent crests is the period T. A displacement-distance graph is a snapshot of the whole wave at one instant, with distance on the axis: the gap between adjacent crests is the wavelength λ. Crest height gives the amplitude on both. For example, crests 0.25 s apart mean T = 0.25 s and f = 4 Hz; crests 0.6 m apart mean λ = 0.6 m. This is where exams most often trip candidates, so check whether the axis reads seconds or metres before you start.
  7. Step 7: Wavefronts and the road aheadA wavefront is the line joining the points a wave has just reached: water wavefronts are concentric circles, and plane waves have straight fronts perpendicular to the direction of travel — the basic tool for drawing reflection and refraction diagrams in the next two lessons. The ripple tank lets us watch both effects directly: entering shallow water, waves slow down, their wavelength shortens and the fronts change direction. For example, lay a glass plate to make half the tank shallow and refraction appears before your eyes. The next lesson puts rays of light on stage and makes reflection and refraction quantitative.

4Diagrams Diagrams

振幅 amplitude波長 wavelength λ峰 crest谷 trough橫波 transverse:振動 ⊥ 傳播(光、水波)縱波 longitudinal:振動 ∥ 傳播(聲)波速 v = f × λf = 1/T(頻率=週期倒數)波傳遞能量,不傳遞物質:浮木只上下浮動,不隨波遠去。Waves carry energy, not matter.
Fig. 1: Anatomy of a wave

5Worked example Example

Example: (a) In a ripple tank, a cork bobs with the water waves, completing 24 full oscillations in 6 s; adjacent crests are 0.05 m apart. Find (i) the frequency, (ii) the period and (iii) the speed of the water waves. (b) A tuning fork of frequency 400 Hz vibrates in air, where the speed of sound is 340 m s⁻¹. Find the wavelength of the sound produced.

  1. (a)(i) Frequency = number of oscillations ÷ time = 24 ÷ 6 = 4 Hz
  2. (a)(ii) Period T = 1/f = 1 ÷ 4 = 0.25 s
  3. (a)(iii) Wavelength = distance between adjacent crests = 0.05 m; v = fλ = 4 × 0.05 = 0.2 m s⁻¹
  4. (b) Rearranging v = fλ: λ = v ÷ f = 340 ÷ 400
  5. (b) λ = 0.85 m
  6. Answer: (a) The water waves have frequency 4 Hz, period 0.25 s and speed 0.2 m s⁻¹. (b) The sound wavelength is 0.85 m. Part (a) finds the frequency from the counts and the time, then works through T = 1/f and v = fλ; part (b) rearranges the same master equation. Keep track of which quantity belongs to which part.

6Common mistakes Mistakes

✗ Thinking the wave carries the medium's particles forward.
✓ A wave transfers energy without transferring matter: buoys and corks only bob in place and never drift ashore with the wave.
✗ Measuring amplitude from trough to crest.
✓ Amplitude is the maximum distance from equilibrium to a crest (or trough); trough-to-crest is twice the amplitude.
✗ Reading the wavelength from a displacement-time graph.
✓ On a displacement-time graph the crest-to-crest gap is the period; only on a displacement-distance graph is it the wavelength. Check the axis first.
✗ Assuming the frequency changes when a wave enters another medium.
✓ Frequency is fixed by the source and never changes across a boundary; the speed and wavelength change instead.
✗ Substituting the period directly into v = fλ.
✓ T and f are reciprocals: a wave with T = 0.25 s has f = 4 Hz; mixing them up throws the speed off by factors.

7Quick check Quick check

Q1How does a wave carry energy without carrying matter? Illustrate.

Q2Distinguish transverse and longitudinal waves, with one example each.

Q3Calculate: water waves of frequency 5 Hz and wavelength 0.04 m — what is their speed?

Q4A buoy completes 40 full oscillations in 10 s. Find the period and the frequency.

Q5A sound wave passes from air into water. What happens to the frequency, speed and wavelength?

8Recap Recap

  • A wave transfers energy from place to place while the medium's particles only vibrate in place
  • Transverse waves have crests and troughs (rope, water); longitudinal waves have compressions and rarefactions (sound)
  • Amplitude is the maximum displacement from equilibrium; wavelength is the distance between neighbouring in-phase points
  • T = 1/f and v = fλ; the source fixes the frequency — across media it is the speed and wavelength that change
  • Read the period from a displacement-time graph and the wavelength from a displacement-distance graph — check the axis first

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