Garment Making Skills

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1Summary 重點摘要

Advanced garment making starts with man-made fibres and fabric finishing, builds on measuring and pattern marks, then applies pleats, zip openings, pockets and trims with systematic working methods to give old clothes a new look.

2Vocabulary cards Vocabulary

3Step by step Steps

1. Choosing man-made fibres by designAt S3 you should know four man-made fibres. Viscose rayon, made from wood pulp, is soft, absorbent and drapey but weaker when wet, so wash gently; polyester is strong, crease-resistant and quick-drying but less breathable; acrylic feels like wool, light and warm, common in hats and scarves; nylon is extremely strong and abrasion-resistant, used for socks and sportswear. For example, for an inter-school sports shirt choose moisture-managing polyester — quick-drying and crease-free, better than pure cotton for hard exercise.
2. Fabric construction and finishingOne fibre weaves into many fabrics. Woven cloth interlaces warp and weft and stays stable; non-woven fabric skips spinning and weaving, bonding or felting fibres directly — cheap and common in shopping bags, cloths and interlinings. Finishing adds value: fire-retardant treatments for curtains and stage drapes, easy-iron finishes for shirts, stain-resistant finishes that keep spills out, and easy-care finishes for quick washing and drying. For example, hospital and hotel bedding uses crease-resistant, easy-care fabrics to cut ironing work, and a waterproof apron at home is stain finishing in action.
3. Fibre and fabric experimentsChoose fabric on evidence, not feel. An abrasion test rubs samples with sandpaper or cloth at the same pressure and compares pilling — the cleaner surface is more durable; an absorbency test drops water on the sample and watches the spread — cotton and viscose soak fast; a heat-retention test covers a hot cup with the sample and compares how quickly the cup cools. The heated parts are demonstrated by the teacher for safety. For example, for a picnic mat, abrasion and stain resistance matter more than looks, so the experiment results make the decision.
4. Patterns: measuring, collars and sleevesBeyond basic body measurement, S3 includes drawing block patterns for collars and sleeves: measure the neck, sleeve length and sleeve girth, take the block as the base, then adjust for style — a flat collar into a small round neck, a straight sleeve tapered, a cuff widened. Pattern marks are the language of cutting: seam allowances on seam lines, grain lines aligned with the selvedge, notches and balance marks clipped, and matching points on collar and stand. For example, to widen a shirt cuff by two centimetres, add one centimetre on each side of the cuff line on the block, then smooth the side seams so nothing corners.
5. Advanced machine stitchesThe sewing machine does more than straight stitch. Zigzag stitching secures raw edges and stretches with knits; decorative (embroidery) stitches combine to make trims; tailor's tacking leaves thread marks that outlast chalk; buttonhole stitch packs dense stitches around the opening, by hand or machine. Always test on scraps first and adjust tension and stitch length. For example, to make a button placket on a knit T-shirt, mark positions with tailor's tacking, machine-stitch the buttonhole in one pass with reinforced ends, then open the middle with a seam ripper.
6. Seams, darts and pleatsA garment's lines come from its structure. Seams fit the body; darts fold surplus fabric into wedges, then are pressed open or to one side, with thicker cloth layered at the point. Pleats add fullness: concealed pleats hide the fold inside for a smooth face; knife pleats run in small regular repeats for texture; wider small pleats suit waistbands and pocket mouths. Finish raw edges with overlocking or turning, and hem by double folding and stitching. For example, knife-pleat a skirt into its waistband: draw pleat lines and directions on the pattern, fold and tack each pleat, then stitch — the spacing stays even.
7. Openings, fastenings and pocketsDressing easy depends on openings and fastenings. A semi-concealed zip suits skirt sides and backs — stitch with a single-sided foot close to the coil so only the stitching shows; neckline finishes use flat collars or shaped facings, stitched face-to-face then turned and pressed. Fastenings include sew-on buttons, press studs and skirt hooks, or fabric loops with buttons. Pockets: a patch pocket sits on the surface, while a seam pocket hides inside a seam for a clean look. For example, adding a patch pocket to a shirt: fold the mouth twice and the three sides once, press, align to the marks, stitch, and back-tack triangles at the top corners.
8. Systematic work and trimsNeat results come from ordered steps and self-checking: read the pattern guide, cut, transfer marks, tack, machine-stitch, remove tacking, press seams — and check each part against the pattern as you go; keep the bench tidy with shears, pins and a seam ripper each in their place. Trims and decoration finish the story: lace on necklines and cuffs, applique building pictures from fabric shapes, trapunto raising motifs in relief. For example, when remaking an old shirt, photograph the original stitching, unpick pocket and sleeve step by step, then cover old pocket marks with applique — old clothes become new.

4Diagrams Diagrams

5Worked example Example

6Common mistakes Mistakes

7Quick check Quick check

8Recap Recap

• Viscose rayon, polyester, acrylic and nylon differ — choose fibre by purpose
• Woven and non-woven structures differ, and fire, crease and stain finishes change how fabric is kept
• Pattern marks are the language of cutting: seam allowance, grain line and balance marks make the fit
• Pleats shape fullness; semi-concealed zips, press studs and patch pockets balance function and looks
• Systematic steps and checking as you go are what make garment work neat and durable